Travels With Maria

Month: April 2019

Fes

Yesterday, the group rode our bus to the city of Fez, maybe 120 miles east of Rabat. A beautiful superhighway took us through the green region of Morocco. The world's second largest forest of cork trees (largest is in Portugal), wheat fields, olive groves on a gently rolling landscape. Eventually, the city of Fez came into view. We exited the highway and drove into the town. Fez has one of the world's largest vehicle-free zones, the medina, a warren of 9000+ tiny streets and alleys dating from the 9th century. Here is the oldest university in the world, operating since 859. In the late 15th century, Morocco had a big…
More

Casablanca

We flew into Casablanca Wednesday, arriving mid-afternoon. We were met at the airport by Ali, who manages the Airbnb. It was a long drive into the city, through very congested traffic. The apartment is on the 14th floor, overlooking the harbor and the train station and lots of construction. This is the vacation home of Alexandre, who lives in Paris. Unlike most Airbnbs, which are furnished with the owner's cast-off stuff supplemented by thrift shop finds, Alexandre's furnishings have been carefully selected. A kitchy-chic melange of oddball antiques, like an old barber's chair, a lamp that is a life-size statue of an African princess, a walk/don't walk sign... Lots of…
More

Alhambra and Hammam

After failing at seeing Holy Week processions for the previous 5 days, we bumped into a small one on the street Monday evening on our way out to dinner. A statue of risen Jesus followed by a Mary statue, with about 20 attendants with a couple of kids waving incense censers. Yesterday, we got picked up with a small group for the 2 hour drive to Grenada to see the Alhambra. It was pouring rain. The bus left us downtown, on our own for lunch, so we went over to the cathedral to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel before stopping in to a tavern for coffee and a…
More

Málaga

We took the train from Cordoba to Malaga yesterday morning. It was uneventful until we arrived. Malaga was the last stop. We waited until the rush of people subsided, then went to luggage storage at the end of the car, only to find out bags were gone! We took chase, running out of the car and into the station before we realized that we had boarded the train at the other end of the car. We went back, and sure enough, there were our suitcases. We know that no one will ever steal your suitcases from a pile of luggage: they might belong to the person right next to them.…
More

Flamenco in Andalucía

Slept late Saturday, out of the apartment around 11. Walked the 3 blocks to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The Alcazar was built by Christian kings in the 1200s or so on the ruins of the destroyed Moorish castle after the Christians reconquered Córdoba. Castle walls and towers to climb, and acres of orchards and gardens. The Moors planted many citrus trees, oranges and lemons, to counteract the stench of the mideval open sewers. The oranges are very aromatic smelling and sour, different from eating oranges. Their leaves are different. The gardens in the Alcazar were all in bloom, but were planted in a haphazard manner. I guess this…
More

Water and Horses

We woke up with no alarm for the first day in months. We have quickly fallen into Spain schedule. Chiyo pointed out that I did not mention La Mezquita in yesterday's email, only posted on Facebook. So here is that: La Mezquita is the great mosque of Córdoba. Originally a place of worship shared by Muslims and Christians, the Muslim ruler of Spain bought the Christian half in the 8th century and built a mosque, the second largest in the world at the time. When Christian kings regained control, they converted it to a cathedral. It's a real hodgepodge of architectural styles, including columns from Roman times. Hundreds of columns…
More

Córdoba: Semana Santa

Tuesday night, we flew to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. The plane was an aging widebody Airbus with hard seats, really good food and nice service. It was short for a transatlantic flight, but we were able to sleep for some short hours. Maria didn't know where we were going until we got into the terminal at Logan, and even then, she didn't know the final destination. The next flight was to Málaga, then an hour train up to Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by the Romans in the second century BC. It was the capital of Moorish Spain from 719 until the 13th century. There is a Roman bridge across…
More

Fes

Yesterday, the group rode our bus to the city of Fez, maybe 120 miles east of Rabat. A beautiful superhighway took us through the green region of Morocco. The world's second largest forest of cork trees (largest is in Portugal), wheat fields, olive groves on a gently rolling landscape. Eventually, the city of Fez came into view. We exited the highway and drove into the town. Fez has one of the world's largest vehicle-free zones, the medina, a warren of 9000+ tiny streets and alleys dating from the 9th century. Here is the oldest university in the world, operating since 859. In the late 15th century, Morocco had a big…
More

Casablanca

We flew into Casablanca Wednesday, arriving mid-afternoon. We were met at the airport by Ali, who manages the Airbnb. It was a long drive into the city, through very congested traffic. The apartment is on the 14th floor, overlooking the harbor and the train station and lots of construction. This is the vacation home of Alexandre, who lives in Paris. Unlike most Airbnbs, which are furnished with the owner's cast-off stuff supplemented by thrift shop finds, Alexandre's furnishings have been carefully selected. A kitchy-chic melange of oddball antiques, like an old barber's chair, a lamp that is a life-size statue of an African princess, a walk/don't walk sign... Lots of…
More

Alhambra and Hammam

After failing at seeing Holy Week processions for the previous 5 days, we bumped into a small one on the street Monday evening on our way out to dinner. A statue of risen Jesus followed by a Mary statue, with about 20 attendants with a couple of kids waving incense censers. Yesterday, we got picked up with a small group for the 2 hour drive to Grenada to see the Alhambra. It was pouring rain. The bus left us downtown, on our own for lunch, so we went over to the cathedral to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel before stopping in to a tavern for coffee and a…
More

Málaga

We took the train from Cordoba to Malaga yesterday morning. It was uneventful until we arrived. Malaga was the last stop. We waited until the rush of people subsided, then went to luggage storage at the end of the car, only to find out bags were gone! We took chase, running out of the car and into the station before we realized that we had boarded the train at the other end of the car. We went back, and sure enough, there were our suitcases. We know that no one will ever steal your suitcases from a pile of luggage: they might belong to the person right next to them.…
More

Flamenco in Andalucía

Slept late Saturday, out of the apartment around 11. Walked the 3 blocks to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The Alcazar was built by Christian kings in the 1200s or so on the ruins of the destroyed Moorish castle after the Christians reconquered Córdoba. Castle walls and towers to climb, and acres of orchards and gardens. The Moors planted many citrus trees, oranges and lemons, to counteract the stench of the mideval open sewers. The oranges are very aromatic smelling and sour, different from eating oranges. Their leaves are different. The gardens in the Alcazar were all in bloom, but were planted in a haphazard manner. I guess this…
More

Water and Horses

We woke up with no alarm for the first day in months. We have quickly fallen into Spain schedule. Chiyo pointed out that I did not mention La Mezquita in yesterday's email, only posted on Facebook. So here is that: La Mezquita is the great mosque of Córdoba. Originally a place of worship shared by Muslims and Christians, the Muslim ruler of Spain bought the Christian half in the 8th century and built a mosque, the second largest in the world at the time. When Christian kings regained control, they converted it to a cathedral. It's a real hodgepodge of architectural styles, including columns from Roman times. Hundreds of columns…
More

Córdoba: Semana Santa

Tuesday night, we flew to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. The plane was an aging widebody Airbus with hard seats, really good food and nice service. It was short for a transatlantic flight, but we were able to sleep for some short hours. Maria didn't know where we were going until we got into the terminal at Logan, and even then, she didn't know the final destination. The next flight was to Málaga, then an hour train up to Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by the Romans in the second century BC. It was the capital of Moorish Spain from 719 until the 13th century. There is a Roman bridge across…
More

Fes

Yesterday, the group rode our bus to the city of Fez, maybe 120 miles east of Rabat. A beautiful superhighway took us through the green region of Morocco. The world's second largest forest of cork trees (largest is in Portugal), wheat fields, olive groves on a gently rolling landscape. Eventually, the city of Fez came into view. We exited the highway and drove into the town. Fez has one of the world's largest vehicle-free zones, the medina, a warren of 9000+ tiny streets and alleys dating from the 9th century. Here is the oldest university in the world, operating since 859. In the late 15th century, Morocco had a big…
More

Casablanca

We flew into Casablanca Wednesday, arriving mid-afternoon. We were met at the airport by Ali, who manages the Airbnb. It was a long drive into the city, through very congested traffic. The apartment is on the 14th floor, overlooking the harbor and the train station and lots of construction. This is the vacation home of Alexandre, who lives in Paris. Unlike most Airbnbs, which are furnished with the owner's cast-off stuff supplemented by thrift shop finds, Alexandre's furnishings have been carefully selected. A kitchy-chic melange of oddball antiques, like an old barber's chair, a lamp that is a life-size statue of an African princess, a walk/don't walk sign... Lots of…
More

Alhambra and Hammam

After failing at seeing Holy Week processions for the previous 5 days, we bumped into a small one on the street Monday evening on our way out to dinner. A statue of risen Jesus followed by a Mary statue, with about 20 attendants with a couple of kids waving incense censers. Yesterday, we got picked up with a small group for the 2 hour drive to Grenada to see the Alhambra. It was pouring rain. The bus left us downtown, on our own for lunch, so we went over to the cathedral to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel before stopping in to a tavern for coffee and a…
More

Málaga

We took the train from Cordoba to Malaga yesterday morning. It was uneventful until we arrived. Malaga was the last stop. We waited until the rush of people subsided, then went to luggage storage at the end of the car, only to find out bags were gone! We took chase, running out of the car and into the station before we realized that we had boarded the train at the other end of the car. We went back, and sure enough, there were our suitcases. We know that no one will ever steal your suitcases from a pile of luggage: they might belong to the person right next to them.…
More

Flamenco in Andalucía

Slept late Saturday, out of the apartment around 11. Walked the 3 blocks to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The Alcazar was built by Christian kings in the 1200s or so on the ruins of the destroyed Moorish castle after the Christians reconquered Córdoba. Castle walls and towers to climb, and acres of orchards and gardens. The Moors planted many citrus trees, oranges and lemons, to counteract the stench of the mideval open sewers. The oranges are very aromatic smelling and sour, different from eating oranges. Their leaves are different. The gardens in the Alcazar were all in bloom, but were planted in a haphazard manner. I guess this…
More

Water and Horses

We woke up with no alarm for the first day in months. We have quickly fallen into Spain schedule. Chiyo pointed out that I did not mention La Mezquita in yesterday's email, only posted on Facebook. So here is that: La Mezquita is the great mosque of Córdoba. Originally a place of worship shared by Muslims and Christians, the Muslim ruler of Spain bought the Christian half in the 8th century and built a mosque, the second largest in the world at the time. When Christian kings regained control, they converted it to a cathedral. It's a real hodgepodge of architectural styles, including columns from Roman times. Hundreds of columns…
More

Córdoba: Semana Santa

Tuesday night, we flew to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. The plane was an aging widebody Airbus with hard seats, really good food and nice service. It was short for a transatlantic flight, but we were able to sleep for some short hours. Maria didn't know where we were going until we got into the terminal at Logan, and even then, she didn't know the final destination. The next flight was to Málaga, then an hour train up to Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by the Romans in the second century BC. It was the capital of Moorish Spain from 719 until the 13th century. There is a Roman bridge across…
More

Fes

Yesterday, the group rode our bus to the city of Fez, maybe 120 miles east of Rabat. A beautiful superhighway took us through the green region of Morocco. The world's second largest forest of cork trees (largest is in Portugal), wheat fields, olive groves on a gently rolling landscape. Eventually, the city of Fez came into view. We exited the highway and drove into the town. Fez has one of the world's largest vehicle-free zones, the medina, a warren of 9000+ tiny streets and alleys dating from the 9th century. Here is the oldest university in the world, operating since 859. In the late 15th century, Morocco had a big…
More

Casablanca

We flew into Casablanca Wednesday, arriving mid-afternoon. We were met at the airport by Ali, who manages the Airbnb. It was a long drive into the city, through very congested traffic. The apartment is on the 14th floor, overlooking the harbor and the train station and lots of construction. This is the vacation home of Alexandre, who lives in Paris. Unlike most Airbnbs, which are furnished with the owner's cast-off stuff supplemented by thrift shop finds, Alexandre's furnishings have been carefully selected. A kitchy-chic melange of oddball antiques, like an old barber's chair, a lamp that is a life-size statue of an African princess, a walk/don't walk sign... Lots of…
More

Alhambra and Hammam

After failing at seeing Holy Week processions for the previous 5 days, we bumped into a small one on the street Monday evening on our way out to dinner. A statue of risen Jesus followed by a Mary statue, with about 20 attendants with a couple of kids waving incense censers. Yesterday, we got picked up with a small group for the 2 hour drive to Grenada to see the Alhambra. It was pouring rain. The bus left us downtown, on our own for lunch, so we went over to the cathedral to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel before stopping in to a tavern for coffee and a…
More

Málaga

We took the train from Cordoba to Malaga yesterday morning. It was uneventful until we arrived. Malaga was the last stop. We waited until the rush of people subsided, then went to luggage storage at the end of the car, only to find out bags were gone! We took chase, running out of the car and into the station before we realized that we had boarded the train at the other end of the car. We went back, and sure enough, there were our suitcases. We know that no one will ever steal your suitcases from a pile of luggage: they might belong to the person right next to them.…
More

Flamenco in Andalucía

Slept late Saturday, out of the apartment around 11. Walked the 3 blocks to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The Alcazar was built by Christian kings in the 1200s or so on the ruins of the destroyed Moorish castle after the Christians reconquered Córdoba. Castle walls and towers to climb, and acres of orchards and gardens. The Moors planted many citrus trees, oranges and lemons, to counteract the stench of the mideval open sewers. The oranges are very aromatic smelling and sour, different from eating oranges. Their leaves are different. The gardens in the Alcazar were all in bloom, but were planted in a haphazard manner. I guess this…
More

Water and Horses

We woke up with no alarm for the first day in months. We have quickly fallen into Spain schedule. Chiyo pointed out that I did not mention La Mezquita in yesterday's email, only posted on Facebook. So here is that: La Mezquita is the great mosque of Córdoba. Originally a place of worship shared by Muslims and Christians, the Muslim ruler of Spain bought the Christian half in the 8th century and built a mosque, the second largest in the world at the time. When Christian kings regained control, they converted it to a cathedral. It's a real hodgepodge of architectural styles, including columns from Roman times. Hundreds of columns…
More

Córdoba: Semana Santa

Tuesday night, we flew to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. The plane was an aging widebody Airbus with hard seats, really good food and nice service. It was short for a transatlantic flight, but we were able to sleep for some short hours. Maria didn't know where we were going until we got into the terminal at Logan, and even then, she didn't know the final destination. The next flight was to Málaga, then an hour train up to Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by the Romans in the second century BC. It was the capital of Moorish Spain from 719 until the 13th century. There is a Roman bridge across…
More

Fes

Yesterday, the group rode our bus to the city of Fez, maybe 120 miles east of Rabat. A beautiful superhighway took us through the green region of Morocco. The world's second largest forest of cork trees (largest is in Portugal), wheat fields, olive groves on a gently rolling landscape. Eventually, the city of Fez came into view. We exited the highway and drove into the town. Fez has one of the world's largest vehicle-free zones, the medina, a warren of 9000+ tiny streets and alleys dating from the 9th century. Here is the oldest university in the world, operating since 859. In the late 15th century, Morocco had a big…
More

Casablanca

We flew into Casablanca Wednesday, arriving mid-afternoon. We were met at the airport by Ali, who manages the Airbnb. It was a long drive into the city, through very congested traffic. The apartment is on the 14th floor, overlooking the harbor and the train station and lots of construction. This is the vacation home of Alexandre, who lives in Paris. Unlike most Airbnbs, which are furnished with the owner's cast-off stuff supplemented by thrift shop finds, Alexandre's furnishings have been carefully selected. A kitchy-chic melange of oddball antiques, like an old barber's chair, a lamp that is a life-size statue of an African princess, a walk/don't walk sign... Lots of…
More

Alhambra and Hammam

After failing at seeing Holy Week processions for the previous 5 days, we bumped into a small one on the street Monday evening on our way out to dinner. A statue of risen Jesus followed by a Mary statue, with about 20 attendants with a couple of kids waving incense censers. Yesterday, we got picked up with a small group for the 2 hour drive to Grenada to see the Alhambra. It was pouring rain. The bus left us downtown, on our own for lunch, so we went over to the cathedral to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel before stopping in to a tavern for coffee and a…
More

Málaga

We took the train from Cordoba to Malaga yesterday morning. It was uneventful until we arrived. Malaga was the last stop. We waited until the rush of people subsided, then went to luggage storage at the end of the car, only to find out bags were gone! We took chase, running out of the car and into the station before we realized that we had boarded the train at the other end of the car. We went back, and sure enough, there were our suitcases. We know that no one will ever steal your suitcases from a pile of luggage: they might belong to the person right next to them.…
More

Flamenco in Andalucía

Slept late Saturday, out of the apartment around 11. Walked the 3 blocks to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The Alcazar was built by Christian kings in the 1200s or so on the ruins of the destroyed Moorish castle after the Christians reconquered Córdoba. Castle walls and towers to climb, and acres of orchards and gardens. The Moors planted many citrus trees, oranges and lemons, to counteract the stench of the mideval open sewers. The oranges are very aromatic smelling and sour, different from eating oranges. Their leaves are different. The gardens in the Alcazar were all in bloom, but were planted in a haphazard manner. I guess this…
More

Water and Horses

We woke up with no alarm for the first day in months. We have quickly fallen into Spain schedule. Chiyo pointed out that I did not mention La Mezquita in yesterday's email, only posted on Facebook. So here is that: La Mezquita is the great mosque of Córdoba. Originally a place of worship shared by Muslims and Christians, the Muslim ruler of Spain bought the Christian half in the 8th century and built a mosque, the second largest in the world at the time. When Christian kings regained control, they converted it to a cathedral. It's a real hodgepodge of architectural styles, including columns from Roman times. Hundreds of columns…
More

Córdoba: Semana Santa

Tuesday night, we flew to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. The plane was an aging widebody Airbus with hard seats, really good food and nice service. It was short for a transatlantic flight, but we were able to sleep for some short hours. Maria didn't know where we were going until we got into the terminal at Logan, and even then, she didn't know the final destination. The next flight was to Málaga, then an hour train up to Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by the Romans in the second century BC. It was the capital of Moorish Spain from 719 until the 13th century. There is a Roman bridge across…
More

Fes

Yesterday, the group rode our bus to the city of Fez, maybe 120 miles east of Rabat. A beautiful superhighway took us through the green region of Morocco. The world's second largest forest of cork trees (largest is in Portugal), wheat fields, olive groves on a gently rolling landscape. Eventually, the city of Fez came into view. We exited the highway and drove into the town. Fez has one of the world's largest vehicle-free zones, the medina, a warren of 9000+ tiny streets and alleys dating from the 9th century. Here is the oldest university in the world, operating since 859. In the late 15th century, Morocco had a big…
More

Casablanca

We flew into Casablanca Wednesday, arriving mid-afternoon. We were met at the airport by Ali, who manages the Airbnb. It was a long drive into the city, through very congested traffic. The apartment is on the 14th floor, overlooking the harbor and the train station and lots of construction. This is the vacation home of Alexandre, who lives in Paris. Unlike most Airbnbs, which are furnished with the owner's cast-off stuff supplemented by thrift shop finds, Alexandre's furnishings have been carefully selected. A kitchy-chic melange of oddball antiques, like an old barber's chair, a lamp that is a life-size statue of an African princess, a walk/don't walk sign... Lots of…
More

Alhambra and Hammam

After failing at seeing Holy Week processions for the previous 5 days, we bumped into a small one on the street Monday evening on our way out to dinner. A statue of risen Jesus followed by a Mary statue, with about 20 attendants with a couple of kids waving incense censers. Yesterday, we got picked up with a small group for the 2 hour drive to Grenada to see the Alhambra. It was pouring rain. The bus left us downtown, on our own for lunch, so we went over to the cathedral to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel before stopping in to a tavern for coffee and a…
More

Málaga

We took the train from Cordoba to Malaga yesterday morning. It was uneventful until we arrived. Malaga was the last stop. We waited until the rush of people subsided, then went to luggage storage at the end of the car, only to find out bags were gone! We took chase, running out of the car and into the station before we realized that we had boarded the train at the other end of the car. We went back, and sure enough, there were our suitcases. We know that no one will ever steal your suitcases from a pile of luggage: they might belong to the person right next to them.…
More

Flamenco in Andalucía

Slept late Saturday, out of the apartment around 11. Walked the 3 blocks to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The Alcazar was built by Christian kings in the 1200s or so on the ruins of the destroyed Moorish castle after the Christians reconquered Córdoba. Castle walls and towers to climb, and acres of orchards and gardens. The Moors planted many citrus trees, oranges and lemons, to counteract the stench of the mideval open sewers. The oranges are very aromatic smelling and sour, different from eating oranges. Their leaves are different. The gardens in the Alcazar were all in bloom, but were planted in a haphazard manner. I guess this…
More

Water and Horses

We woke up with no alarm for the first day in months. We have quickly fallen into Spain schedule. Chiyo pointed out that I did not mention La Mezquita in yesterday's email, only posted on Facebook. So here is that: La Mezquita is the great mosque of Córdoba. Originally a place of worship shared by Muslims and Christians, the Muslim ruler of Spain bought the Christian half in the 8th century and built a mosque, the second largest in the world at the time. When Christian kings regained control, they converted it to a cathedral. It's a real hodgepodge of architectural styles, including columns from Roman times. Hundreds of columns…
More

Córdoba: Semana Santa

Tuesday night, we flew to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. The plane was an aging widebody Airbus with hard seats, really good food and nice service. It was short for a transatlantic flight, but we were able to sleep for some short hours. Maria didn't know where we were going until we got into the terminal at Logan, and even then, she didn't know the final destination. The next flight was to Málaga, then an hour train up to Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by the Romans in the second century BC. It was the capital of Moorish Spain from 719 until the 13th century. There is a Roman bridge across…
More

Fes

Yesterday, the group rode our bus to the city of Fez, maybe 120 miles east of Rabat. A beautiful superhighway took us through the green region of Morocco. The world's second largest forest of cork trees (largest is in Portugal), wheat fields, olive groves on a gently rolling landscape. Eventually, the city of Fez came into view. We exited the highway and drove into the town. Fez has one of the world's largest vehicle-free zones, the medina, a warren of 9000+ tiny streets and alleys dating from the 9th century. Here is the oldest university in the world, operating since 859. In the late 15th century, Morocco had a big…
More

Casablanca

We flew into Casablanca Wednesday, arriving mid-afternoon. We were met at the airport by Ali, who manages the Airbnb. It was a long drive into the city, through very congested traffic. The apartment is on the 14th floor, overlooking the harbor and the train station and lots of construction. This is the vacation home of Alexandre, who lives in Paris. Unlike most Airbnbs, which are furnished with the owner's cast-off stuff supplemented by thrift shop finds, Alexandre's furnishings have been carefully selected. A kitchy-chic melange of oddball antiques, like an old barber's chair, a lamp that is a life-size statue of an African princess, a walk/don't walk sign... Lots of…
More

Alhambra and Hammam

After failing at seeing Holy Week processions for the previous 5 days, we bumped into a small one on the street Monday evening on our way out to dinner. A statue of risen Jesus followed by a Mary statue, with about 20 attendants with a couple of kids waving incense censers. Yesterday, we got picked up with a small group for the 2 hour drive to Grenada to see the Alhambra. It was pouring rain. The bus left us downtown, on our own for lunch, so we went over to the cathedral to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel before stopping in to a tavern for coffee and a…
More

Málaga

We took the train from Cordoba to Malaga yesterday morning. It was uneventful until we arrived. Malaga was the last stop. We waited until the rush of people subsided, then went to luggage storage at the end of the car, only to find out bags were gone! We took chase, running out of the car and into the station before we realized that we had boarded the train at the other end of the car. We went back, and sure enough, there were our suitcases. We know that no one will ever steal your suitcases from a pile of luggage: they might belong to the person right next to them.…
More

Flamenco in Andalucía

Slept late Saturday, out of the apartment around 11. Walked the 3 blocks to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The Alcazar was built by Christian kings in the 1200s or so on the ruins of the destroyed Moorish castle after the Christians reconquered Córdoba. Castle walls and towers to climb, and acres of orchards and gardens. The Moors planted many citrus trees, oranges and lemons, to counteract the stench of the mideval open sewers. The oranges are very aromatic smelling and sour, different from eating oranges. Their leaves are different. The gardens in the Alcazar were all in bloom, but were planted in a haphazard manner. I guess this…
More

Water and Horses

We woke up with no alarm for the first day in months. We have quickly fallen into Spain schedule. Chiyo pointed out that I did not mention La Mezquita in yesterday's email, only posted on Facebook. So here is that: La Mezquita is the great mosque of Córdoba. Originally a place of worship shared by Muslims and Christians, the Muslim ruler of Spain bought the Christian half in the 8th century and built a mosque, the second largest in the world at the time. When Christian kings regained control, they converted it to a cathedral. It's a real hodgepodge of architectural styles, including columns from Roman times. Hundreds of columns…
More

Córdoba: Semana Santa

Tuesday night, we flew to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. The plane was an aging widebody Airbus with hard seats, really good food and nice service. It was short for a transatlantic flight, but we were able to sleep for some short hours. Maria didn't know where we were going until we got into the terminal at Logan, and even then, she didn't know the final destination. The next flight was to Málaga, then an hour train up to Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by the Romans in the second century BC. It was the capital of Moorish Spain from 719 until the 13th century. There is a Roman bridge across…
More